3D Printing Forum

@Paul, I had that, but thought the images were too large, so made them links again

I wonder if I can make links into thumbnails....like attachments. hmmm.

Titus wrote: I wonder if the clog did that or the other way around(more likely )

Titus, it's probably a bit of both. When you re-insert the PTFE (a new one I assume) check that the bowden tube fits nicely (also check if it's completly round, stright cut, whole is straight => otherwise, change the bowden tube, happend to me, and also nicolinux) and don't apply tooooo much pressure when fixing the whole stuff, just a good fit not pressing together much (I hope you get what I mean).
If you then feed the filament it should go trough to the nozzle with no hickup whatsoever... just saying.

martin-benz it's spot-on on that recommendations. Specially the think about preassure. It works at first but it forces the coupler to deform overtime and it dies faster. Also a little fan focus on the coupler makes a very happy coupler.

Neotko wrote:Also a little fan focus on the coupler makes a very happy coupler.

On the UMO ?

Titus wrote:Hmmm, you guys have any experience with your glass bed getting chips out of it? I only print with PLA and just noticed there's a chip out of the glass!

It happened to me with an early batch of Colorfabb XT.
Turned the glass plate upside down and it hasn't happened since.
I generally use glue for all plastics after that experience with XT though.
It feels like glue gives a nice predictable adhesion, strong enough to keep the print in place during printing, but not strong enough to pull chips out of the glass plate when cooling.

Amedee wrote:

Neotko wrote:Also a little fan focus on the coupler makes a very happy coupler.

On the UMO ?

Oh yeah, heat on the exterior of the peek it's 120C at start and 160-180 after 2h print. With a fan it stays at 140ish. With a fan there's less heat build up, less heat crawling up on retracts and imo (& experience) ptfe coupler last longer.

I'd never thought of that, but I had noticed a few people had fans hanging over the middle of their print head..is that to cool the coupler?

Neotko wrote:

Amedee wrote:On the UMO ?

Oh yeah, heat on the exterior of the peek it's 120C at start and 160-180 after 2h print. With a fan it stays at 140ish. With a fan there's less heat build up, less heat crawling up on retracts and imo (& experience) ptfe coupler last longer.

Although I definitely agree with the principle, I never saw any fan duct / fan holder for that (I probably missed that)

Also while we are at it, any better alternative to the Ultimaker official Teflon coupler for the UMO? Any magic material from Anders' lab?

Carl (swordriff 3dsolex) told me he can make TFM versions with umo size and specs.

@neotko: Qestion is, if he really does... I suggested this about half a year ago to him.

Actually you already said that....

Neotko wrote:I did set a 25x25 fan focus on the ptfe coupler/peek to avoid surprises but even so after half a colorfabb xt spool at 255ish the lower part of the peek/barrel started to deform. I'm more worried about that stuff melting (releasing toxic fumes) than it being destroyed since I got a bag of china peeks for emergencies.

My memory is no more what it used to be...

Neotko wrote:Carl (swordriff 3dsolex) told me he can make TFM versions with umo size and specs.

That would be nice...
The limiting factor would then be the PEEK, but we should be good up to 250°C.

If you really really want to go 260+, talk to Carl (3dsolex), he has a solution (untested) that replaces the peek for another material. That with a I2K and a new TM, you could print probably at 300C without a scratch. I didn't had the 'need' yet and I wan't to do the alu ptfe coupler for um2 since I'll end moving my hotend to um2 design sooner than later. But if you really really want, he can deliver.

Dim3nsioneer wrote:@neotko: Qestion is, if he really does... I suggested this about half a year ago to him.

True, but I think the problem it's demand. I ordered a ptfe coupler and 35w (um2) heater, and he called me by phone asking the dimensions to be sure since he though that it was a umo ptfe not um2. So I think it's just a matter of someone ordering it. The truth it's that most of umo users just go to china aliexpress and since the feeder it's just way overpowered it's quite hard to get underextrusion, and I bet 80% of the users don't look at the print quality, changes of preassure and little stuff we love to have just perfect.

Also I truly think that the natural move it's to move to um2 hotend, specially with a I2K solution to go high temps. Also to install a pt100 on umo (1.5.x) with just a little e3d board it can be done (if you know how to edit firmware and all that).

I have no need for 300°C, but 260°C would be nice if we want to try the new ColorFabb HT...
I feel that UM2 head is bit an overkill, but I would definitely go for Teflon coupler / PEEK upgrade.
(I could also settle for 250°C and use the E3D for anything hotter on the other printer)