What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?

[drayson]

Thank you Amedee!
That means a go for purchase

[Anders Olsson]

- High temperature - at 18V 12A 216W => what I like to do...

Problem: I don´t want to use a Meanwell-style PSU but can´t find a notebook/desktop PSU for 18V/12A...

Any hint??
What happens when using a 19,5V/16,5A/330W DELL notebook/desktop PSU? or second option a 19.5V 11.8A 230W PSU. Smoke???

The 330W PSU should work fine. The heater will be able to deliver 254W wit that one, which I would guess is close enough to 216W that the heater will survive. You can of course avoid keeping the heater at max temperature for extended periods of time to avoid damaging it.
the 230W PSU is likely to complain, so don't use that one.

Regarding headed bed temperatures, glues and such I do the following:

PLA (PLA/PHA): 60C clean or glued bed.
PETG/XT: 70C and glue
ABS, HIPS: 90-95C and glue
Ninjaflex: 50C and glue
Flexible FPE 45D: 110C and clean bed (will not stick to glue)
Taulman Bridge Nylon: 80C and glue
PVA: 60C and glue (not sure glue is needed)
PC (Polycarbonate): 110-120C and glue (requires encapsulating the printer)
POM: Not yet succeeded to make this stick to the bed

I only use the Tesa Easy Stick glue.
It is much better than the one supplied with the printer in my opinion (easier to get thin layers, lasts longer, sticks good)

tesa easy stick.jpg (28.61 KiB) Viewed 10091 times

The packaging of Tesa Easy Stick has changed from green to blue lately by the way, not sure if the content is still the same

Important is to clean the platform carefully, especially when changing from one type of plastic to another.
I normally use dishwashing soap and then wipe/polish it properly clean with paper, avoiding leaving fingerprints on the glass.
Some types of plastic appears "allergic" to others, like when printing ABS after printing Flexible FPE, so you really need to get the glass plate properly clean if swapping between plastic types.

Regarding the gluing, I start of with two thin crossing layers on a clean plate and then just add one layer for each print until the glue gets too thick and the plate needs cleaning (about 15-20 prints).
Gluing need to be made on a reasonably cold plate, like below 45 C or so, or the glue will be difficult to apply in thin layers an ineffective.

[Amedee]

Nice summary Anders!

I don't have this wide experience with 'exotic' materials but I definitely concur -- A clean plate is key and if you use dish-washing soap it is very easy to clean up the leftover glue (or hairspray if you prefer).

Most of the time I print PLA with no glue, and then I also use brake cleaner between prints to cleanup fingerprints, grease, ... (brake cleaner is probably not the best or the only product you can use, but I always have it at hand in my shop, so that's why I use it )

For the Ninjaflex, I never glue and never had problems, but I always use a brim so that I am sure there is enough pressure in the bowden before the print starts. It then sticks fantastically good on the plate and it won't come out easily when the plate is cold.

To add to the list:
ColorFabb nGen: 80C and glue (Interestingly it prints well on blue tape, first layer is sometimes challenging, but then it sticks very well)