3D Printing Forum

Well I made sure that brass pipe is in the block as far as it can go

It's not flush but the gap is about two pieces of paper!

That's looks perfect

You are right Titus, but as the PEEK is tight against the pipe, turning the PEEK will screw the pipe in the block, so it might be easier...

LePaul wrote: It's not flush but the gap is about two pieces of paper!

Looks very good to me as well.

The problem of turning the peek it's that the flat base of the barrel brokes so easy. Or worse, it bends and leaves a gap on the upper side with the ptfe coupler leaving a internal leak (that will cause color distorsion, spots and blocks). But if you want to remove the peek the best and safest way it's to have the nozzle/barrel assembled and when cold (or 90C if you get leak) then you can unscrew the peek without damaging the barrel. I learn this the hard way by breaking 4barrels with different methods. Good my barrels cost 7€ each

I have a backup barrel from China in case mine breaks(no need to spend like 20 euro's on UMs version).
I haven't gotten a PTFE spare(someone was working on new ones here right?)

I have the same as Paul, but never tightend my brass further in the block. We'll see if I get any leakage or not.

Carefull with china umo blocks. I bought from 3 different sources and. One had the pt100 hole at 3.5mm, other 3.1, other was different size near the nozzle and the other was almost ok but only worked with their pt100 that was real crap. Check the holes, you will be amazed.

Okay, good to hear I have done something correct and multiple people agree (Maybe I should print and hang this?)

Now, for a proper XT-CF20 test....I know fans off (Advanced Tab)

What would you guys suggest for Cura settings and a good test model, perhaps something we can all try printing

Ooops...

Don't show the ruby the competitors will dig on how it's assembled (or something like that anders said)

Yes indeed this one is on purpose low-resolution, I sent more detailed pictures by PM to Anders...

Amedee wrote:Ooops...

I was waiting for that to happen looking at your previous picture, something went wrong there, that is why I call these nozzles prototypes and don't sell them yet
Currently working on the dimensions of the next version to prevent this from happening.

The nozzle Paul fitted is actually one of my home-made prototypes which might be a bit stronger in this sense.

I have had several such ruby-popping incidents with previous protptypes by the way, even figured out a method of getting the ruby clean enough to reuse it

Just got home a bit ago and scrolling through the Filament thread on XT-CF20. I also looked at Neotko's fan shroud tutorial to see his settings as well. I'm not sure about two things...(1) Glue stick? and (2) Retractions?

Filament thread here viewtopic.php?f=14&t=14

I think I have the basic settings...if you think there are things I should change, please advise!

Well that's the basic settings from Sandervg converting my s3d profile to cura. After I get coffee I'll post you my s3d profile for carbon so you can see the settings.

Anders Olsson wrote:I have had several such ruby-popping incidents with previous prototypes by the way, even figured out a method of getting the ruby clean enough to reuse it

Completely useless reaction but...
I actually read "pooping incidents" and shortly thought that would be an awesome, yet painful skill