3D Gecko printer

[Neotko]

I'm gonna have one of the Aliexpress 3D printers called 3D Gecko printer



The corexy doesn't seem bad quality, and the idea of not moving the bed looks pretty interesting to keep the movement (or shake-shake) to a minimum, ofc the frame structure doens't seem to be super firm, but if a CR10 can do almost decent prints, maybe a square firm frame can also do some stuff.

I'm getting this at a lower price, so I'm biassed, but I will do a critic review of it. I had to pay the delivery, but they offer the price really cheap (ofc I think that I'll get a bit hammered on customs).

Anyhow, interesting use of the E3D DirectDrive, with a Linear system using corexy. The bed, according to the assembly manual, is moved by 2 belts that are driven by a Geared motor. The board seems quite nice, ofc it doesn't have pt100, but since the pack comes with a E3D hotend clone (all is clone ofc) it should be ok for me since I do 90% PLA. Also, having a bigger print area printer for extra jobs seems like a nice addition to the mix for my shop.

Got it from aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-Ni ... 80428.html

Day after day I keep doing a search for updates on aliexpress, sometimes you find something interesting, and today I found this

The interesting thing, is that the guy that made this printer, has quite a few designs on Thingiverse, so at least they are a China shop, but with a Maker spirit, that can't be half bad. Also, by the other users posts on their facebook, clearly the printer does some decent prints.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/east3dgecko/

I'll review it, assemble and all that stuff. Gonna be fun to have a 310x300x300 volume printer.

[jonnybischof]

It's certainly an interesting idea to move the xy-gantry instead of the build platform.
However, I doubt that it makes a difference in practice because while the build platform is now sturdy and inert - the xy-gantry is not anymore... (or is it? That is the question...).

I suppose it depends on which part is heavier - build platform or gantry mechanism.
Interestingly, this printer's Z gantry looks very much like my own build (not yet published) except that I move the build platform instead of the xy-gantry.

Aluminum frame printers can be great - or utterly crappy. Depends on the aluminum profiles and how well they are machined (cut to length).


/edit:
Another thought on moving the xy-gantry versus moving the build platform:
I still think it's better to move the build platform, because the xy-gantry is a module that moves around in rapid movements (shakes) and generates momentum. I would always try to keep this part of the machine as sturdy as possible = mount it directly to the sturdiest part of the frame. The build platform might be heavier than the gantry, but it doesn't generate any momentum, so moving it around is less of a problem.

[LePaul]

I'll be interested to hear what you think of it. The Core XY setup looks interesting and knowing the prints you do, curious how it meets your expectations

I wonder how the instructions/build quality will be.

[LePaul]

Just looking at the directions and the beams are 2040, which is something my friend @Samurai and I were discussing. The FT-5 should have used those instead of 2020 to make it stronger and more rigid.

[Neotko]

I think the printer might work ok at 50mm/s also direct drive for me is the one option, don’t want to go bowden again.

My plans to make it lighter after the first month of use is to change the hotend to a pseudo um2 hotend OR installing the pancake motor to remove weight on the hotend.

Indeed the lack of frame should add vibrations, but with the simple design it should be fairly cheap to add wood/aluminum sheets to make it more sturdy.

The think that calls me is the 30x30 bed area without bed clips. Ofc also I got it for the delivery price so is hard to see it as expensive.

Also interesting the board has a slow to upgrade to 2 extruders, so maybe if it works decently could be fun to add a magnetic changer.

The assembly manual looks really decent (its on the Facebook group posted on the main link). Also, I seen others unpacking and they send everything with a good box, I seen many aliexpress sellers sending the stuff on the worst imaginable boxes.

[jonnybischof]

I'd also consider 2020 to be too flimsy for anything but a very small printer (like 150x150x150 mm build volume). 2040 is a good upgrade, but probably more important than that is the question of how the beams are connected to each other. Doesn't matter if you have rock solid beams if you use flimsy connectors, or only connect them at one point... If, for example, the beams are connected using 3D-printed parts, then it really doesn't matter at all since any wobble will simply come from the connectors, and not the beams anyways.

For my own 3D printer constructions I finally moved away from aluminum beams again because I think a frame made from CNC-cut panels is the best way to do it.

[jonnybischof]

...
The assembly manual looks really decent (its on the Facebook group posted on the main link). Also, I seen others unpacking and they send everything with a good box, I seen many aliexpress sellers sending the stuff on the worst imaginable boxes.

Good indicator indeed. Well, we're all eagerly awaiting your review and thoughts on this machine!

[LePaul]

One thing I notice is with the FT-5, instead of just moving a printhead, it's moving that entire 450mm 2020 rail. How these guys are claiming high speeds is beyond me. I'll take slow and a good print versus many failed from printing too fast.

I was looking at those instructions and was really interested in how all those belts go in. That looks like a challenge you'll enjoy!

I can give you a great source of pancake motors that have served me well! (https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/hybri ... hs08-1004s)

$6.60, I bought three since shipping cost more than one pancake

I've had no issues with this model, default voltage from the stepper driver worked fine and only took a few tries in Marlin to sort out the proper esteps.

[GrueMaster]

I'd be concerned about the belt drive. While my Hictop uses belts for X Y, Z is threaded rod, which allows for better precision. I guess it depends on the movementsofa. XY for speed, Z for accuracy?

I guess I just don't know enough yet.

[Neotko]

I'd be concerned about the belt drive. While my Hictop uses belts for X Y, Z is threaded rod, which allows for better precision. I guess it depends on the movementsofa. XY for speed, Z for accuracy?

I guess I just don't know enough yet.

Oh I really don't know. I suppose the advantage of keeping the Z steady is proportional to how big that Z is. For a 300x300 bed size looks like a good idea, since the weight that you move is only the head, and it stays at the same weight for the whole print, but if you move the bed, you get more mass on the bed along the print (ofc this only should affect really big prints).

Still, this printer frame could be much better, but still it's a DIY 600€ printer.

What I would try to do after the review time is, (IF works) to add some panels to make it much more stable. Even two panels, should add more stability. But anyhow, that's getting too far away from reality.

[LePaul]

I thought I saw a livestream on YouTube tonight of someone assembling one. I'll see if I can find the link

[Neotko]

Yeah been watching it. But gonna go sleep. Will check it tomorrow if they leave it offline after. It’s on

https://www.youtube.com/c/timothyhoogland89

[Neotko]

Well his psu seems defective but on the facebook the main guy behind the printer looks very active and direct admitted that some early kits didn’t had enough QC. Good that they are eager to talk and find the troubles.

On the other side. Maybe it’s just me but I think the kit is actually as cheap as the parts. We all know how important is to have a really good PSU to avoid issues and good wiring. Still for that print size, if the inly issue is some wires and a new psu, still seems ok. Could be better but a ‘commercial’ machine that size with misumi rails and all with bon-clones, could cost quite a bit more.

So I just got my dhl tracking number, and hopefully will arrive soon.

If the basic stuff works my plan for first things to upgrade are:
- UM2 hotend (I lov it because it works great with thousands of retractions without clogs)
- My very small pancake motor that I bought a year ago
- A meanweel PSU (I have one unused).

This will make me move my unused stock parts.

[LePaul]

I watched for a while, he was pretty angry that some things were missing (8 or so screws)

These China printers lack some good quality control. My CR-10 had metal shavings all over the z screw and was poorly packaged (print head not strapped down/secured)

[jonnybischof]

Well, when you buy a China printer, you have to be prepared for that... If you buy a cheap product, you get a cheap product. What I find much more annoying is when you buy an expensive product that is hardly any better!